Salty sea dogs and crabs legs

Since the start of the new year I have been sailing (mostly solo) almost non-stop aboard the Pearson Triton we recently purchased. In this short time many adventures have been had and the constant reminder of one's own mortality a reoccurring theme. This tale is from our exploits during our most recent passage to Santa Cruz Island.

As Alex, Josie and I arrived at the docks Friday night, the winds blowing like fuck-all (40kts+). Optimistically(or foolishly), we loaded the boat and with any luck the gale would blow itself out before daybreak. We slept reasonably well given the howling winds and violent whipping of dozens halyards on dozens of masts.

Waking up an hour late the next morning, the outlook had significantly improved. The wind had calmed to a good stiff 25kts and the swell was not unreasonable. Upon realizing the good news, we loaded up on supplies and began preparations to make sail.

In a bit of fortunate misfortune, we decided on a last minute test of the BBQ. The weathered valve was not only faulty but seized in the propane feed tube. This was not a welcome delay, as we had already watched our planned departure time come and go. 

After about an hour of searching we found a second hand boat supplier, that not only had the replacement but also provided us with a workshop. We immediately set to freeing the useless and corroded old valve. This cumbersome process required the use of: a large hammer, an equally over-sized screw driver, an excessive quantity of penetrating fluid, a vice and a substantial application of force. In the end we were triumphant.

Upon returning to the docks the wind had not yet let up, this was good because we were now hours behind schedule and needed to make good time. Hastily, we prepared to make sail and planned a launching strategy. This strategy turned out to be a fantastic failure due to the strong winds and the old boat's terrible steering qualities in reverse. Fortunately, without too much drama and some fancy rope work we got her pointed up into the wind. We were finally on our way.

With the winds blowing 25kts with 30kt gusts we hoisted the sails and began to settle in for the six hour voyage ahead. We were finally making good headway and beginning to relax when Daisy, our German Shepherd, went tumbling-head-over heels off the back of the boat. Taking the helm and assigning my wife as a spotter, we performed a standard man overboard procedure. Riding up beside the dog I was able to grab her and bring her safely back on board. She was soaked to the bone but no worse for wear. I had been planning on putting netting in around the stern pulpit, and by week's end there will be.

Daisy relaxing on a calmer day

Once we were north of Ventura and well off shore the seas settled and the wind was reduced to a comfortable 12-15kts. We were able to shake out the reef and  run under full sail. Between that point and making landfall at Santa Cruz island things were pleasantly uneventful. 

The sun set as we made landfall, which was beautiful but less than desirable, as we were yet to anchor on what would be a near moonless night. With our intended destination still over 12 miles away I hoped we could sneak into Potato Harbor in the last lingering moments of twilight. We would have no such luck, all detail was lost to the darkness before we even arrived at the entrance. 

 

We pushed on through darkness for another hour and a half to Prisoners Harbor.  Its easy approach and unlit military supply dock [marking a safe anchorage] were ideal for just such an occasion. With one eye on the depth finder and the other on the featureless coast, we anchored bow-and-stern. Once satisfied with the hold and angle to the swell we were able to relax for the evening.

Once settled we spent the night fishing for crabs under the innumerable stars that are lost to the city lights back home. Our entertainment was watching the bio-luminescent display known as the red tide. The harbor came to life as dolphins chasing schools of fish lit up the waters around us. This seemingly electric display is impossible to photograph and a description in words is inadequate. One would have to see it themselves for it is a truly magical thing. This went on through the night and after pulling up a good haul of crabs we went below to get some sleep.

We woke in conditions so calm that the angry seas that tried to steal my dog seemed so far away. We would have had the glassy water of the harbor to ourselves that morning, if not for the sea lions and pelicans. It was a lazy day in all the best ways and once we were all up it was time for breakfast.

When I unwrapped the crabs they were still lively as ever. The biggest of the bottom dwelling bastards was none too happy to be in the same bucket with the others; he brutally removed the claws of one and nearly cracking another in half as we were preparing the grill. Making short work of cleaning them, I handed the meaty bits over to Alex to be cooked.

Upon finishing our delicious breakfast, we noticed a large number of fish had found refuge under the Triton's hull. I tried free-diving in the icy cold waters but there was simply not enough visibility. I quickly gave up and resorted to rod and real. Using bread for bait, we fished till our cooler was full and the few pieces of bread we had were gone.

It was now half past four, well after our planned departure time but more importantly well after lunch. We made quick work of the fish and headed for open water. The wind was just strong enough to allow for good speed but not enough to cause any undue discomfort. The sun set as we cleared the point and again we headed into darkness.

A dark night with a good breeze has to be one of my favorite times to be at sea, and I enjoyed this near moonless night maybe more then others. Our boat moving in solitude and silence through calm seas was joined by a pod of dolphins. The electric glow of the red-tide allowed us to see every detail of their movement. You could see them lazily riding the water pushed aside by the hull. They were rolling and playing with one another; so close you could literally reach in and touch them. Once bored, the dolphins would veer off at full speed leaving a glowing comet trail behind, only to return a few moments later for another free ride. It went on like this for some time as we took turns riding the bowsprit. It really is amazing the otherworldly things you can see so close to home if only you know where to look.

Shortly after the dolphins had abandoned us for good we were back in the safe waters of the harbor. Returning to the slip was far simpler a task then leaving it. With nothing lost to the sea or damaged aboard the ship, our voyage was at an end.

~jerrad

Just a quick update

I've been back from Haiti for about a week and I have been busy writing but don't know when I will be done, I will post as soon as I am finished.

 

-Jerrad

24 è tan an Ayiti (24hrs to Haiti)

As I sit here with my bags packed waiting for my taxi, I reflect on my choices and hope that I will be more help than a burden. By this time tomorrow I will be landing in Port-au-Prince and then heading out to Léogâne. I don't really know what's in store for me but it will with little doubt be a trip that wont be soon forgotten.

I will be gone for the next 3 weeks and will try to update every few days with news, pictures and videos so check back regularly.
-jerrad

Live the life you love. Love the life you live.

When I tell people we will be moving to the US Virgin Islands the first question is almost always  "Now, where is that?" followed almost without fail by "why?"  The why goes a lot deeper than just sunshine and palm trees. I could probably write a novel on the subject but I will do my best to keep it as short as possible.

I had been weighing the options of where my wife and I would be living after she finished grad school. I wasn't thrilled about any of the places we were looking but there were a couple options I was willing to settle on. [settle...what an ugly word]

Luckily, while planning a trip to the USVI in celebration of my wife's graduation, I noticed that she could actually work there. This sparked an idea and at first this idea seemed more like that of a daydream than anything else. So initially I paid it little mind but it kept grinding away at me day after day. Eventually I had no choice but to look into it so I could lay it to rest once and for all.

Almost as soon as I began seriously researching I was sold on the idea. The business friendly attitude of the islands excited me (I had been running a small business in California which is not business friendly). More personally, the type of business I could run would be more enjoyable, the laid-back lifestyle and slower pace of life enticed me even further. And I can not forget to mention the culture, history, food, and music of this part of the world really are something special.

Obviously there are some issues like the high cost of living, lower average salary (compared to the states), hurricanes and the potential for island fever. These things must be taken seriously as well as the fact that life moves significantly slower there. Going from the go go go to the slow slow slow is often too much for would-be transplants. However, once we visited the islands (in September), this really sealed the deal. The outstanding natural beauty, slower pace of life and Candi's "come back sauce" were too good to pass up for the sake of practicality.

Even more refreshing than the picturesque waters were the people. Total strangers were so helpful and willing to talk to you. Like the time when my wife walked into a random medical office to get job hunting tips and the office manager was more then happy to stop whatever he was doing to give her some pointers. Or just waiting for the bus under a Kapok tree and shooting the breeze with Ms. Jenny in Coral Bay.

I guess in the end it comes down to doing what I love, in the place I love, with the woman I love.

-jerrad

Octopus Curry!

My wife gave a thorough intro so I'll just get right to it:

While in Santa Barbara this week I decided to do a little pier fishing.

I was after lobster, crabs and halibut but as you can probably guess by the title I caught none of the above. Luckily, a successful fishing trip to me just involves bringing a good meal home. After about an hour of freezing my ass off I manage to grab a good-sized octopus.

We have a fresh octopus, so now what?

Well first it needs to be cleaned, a simple process that involves flipping the octopus inside out and removing the undesirable bits and rubbing it in white flour to remove the sliminess and rinsing it clean.

Next you need to tenderize it so that it is pleasant to eat, a regular meat tenderizer does the job fine. Then, and most importantly, you put it in the freezer for at least 8 hrs. I fought this idea but honestly freezing and thawing it will make the meat very tender.

Once you are ready to cook the octopus, take it out of the freezer and let it thaw overnight in the fridge. Once thawed you will want to bring a pot of well-salted water to a rolling boil then bring it back down to medium/low heat.

Dip the tentacles in one by one for about 3 seconds to "scare" the octopus then drop the whole beast into the vat. He will turn red and the water will get progressively darker, this is normal.
Keep the heat on for about 45min then shut it off and keep him in there for probably another 15min while the water slowly cools. This step is to help soften up the meat further.

After removing your eight-legged friend from the water you will want to remove the skin but try to keep the suckers attached. After you have exposed all of the glorious white meat you will want to chop him up into bite-sized pieces.

To make the curry I start with about 3 tbs of red (Thai) curry paste, freshly minced garlic, onion, fresh ground peppers and paprika. I combine these ingredients with the fresh-cut octopus into a large pan with about a tablespoon of oil and stir-fry for a few minutes until aromatic.

At this point you add a can of coconut milk(14oz) and bring it to a boil. Once boiling take the temperature way way down to a low (I mean low) simmer and stir regularly. You keep this up for about 45 min till the sauce thickens and the octopus is nice and tender. Also it isn't a bad idea to throw a couple tablespoons of butter in about 5 min before you're finished to help enrich the flavors even further.

Now pour a healthy serving over fresh rice and enjoy.

[note: if adding vegetables in the curry it is best to stir-fry them separately and add them at the end because if you put them in when you start the curry they will end up as a hideous mushy mass ruining all you have worked so hard for]

-jerrad